October 12-20, 2007 . . . Tennessee River (Cuba to Chattanooga)

Back on the Tennessee River from Cuba, Tennessee, to Clifton, Tennessee, to Iuka, Mississippi, up in the corner of Mississippi/Tennessee/Alabama, the barge traffic continues.


The Wilson Lock is HUGE! The standard big size of 1,200' x 110', however, this one raised us up some 93'. We felt so small in this lock.


The rear doors are so massive that they cannot fit into the camera lens from the stern of SONATA inside the lock.


The lock having been filled, proceeds to lower the front gate so that we may continue. Some have doors that open, some have gates that lower; this one lowers.


At the Joe Wheeler lock we watched a tow with a number of barges lock his barges up, then we had to wait while the tow boat was then locked up. A two hour wait! Bonnie said she would not look at this lock door again . . . after she had looked at it a million times in anticipation of it opening. Delays are just part of the joy of the trip.


The doors finally open for us. Our overnight is just minutes away from this lock. Joe Wheeler State Park.


Joe Wheeler State Park was the site for the America's Great Loop Cruisers' Association Fall Rendezvous. We did not have reservations here for we did not expect to get this far by this date, October 15th. There was no slip space and no room at the rendezvous for additional participants, nonetheless, we were able to stay on the courtesy dock (no power) for free and visit with friends we had met along the way.


The highlight of the stop was visiting again with Virginia and Phil Moyer of HARMONY whom we had not seen since Brewerton, New York. We will probably see them again when they join us in New Orleans for a cruise over to their home in Houston.


On the way to Chattanooga there were two state parks, Ditto Landing and Jackson County, and two locks. The state parks were great. One had all services, water, electric, and a nice little place for breakfast . . . all for only $18.00.

Just the day before we passed under the Sergeant York bridge, and, before we could leave the Jackson County marina in the early morning, we found that the cable movie was SERGEANT YORK. This film is a 1941 biographical film about the life of Alvin York, the most decorated American soldier of World War I, a native of Tennessee. Starring in the movie were Gary Cooper, as Alvin C. York, Walter Brennan, Joan Leslie. We delayed our departure to enjoy the film.


Up the Tennessee, out of Alabama and back into Tennessee, above the Nickajack Dam and Lock we came into the area called the "Grand Canyon of the Tennessee." Some of the most stunning scenery to be found anywhere on the river. High bluffs, beautiful trees.


The river twists and turns in the valley with beautiful views on both sides. We appear to be alone on the river, we have it all to ourselves.


Twisting and turning in the river we find water depths up to 135 feet because the river follows an ancient earthquake fault. There are deep holes in the river known as "The Pan", "The Skillet", "The Pot", because of the swirling, boiling, water that existed before the Nickajack Dam. Here we reenter the Eastern Time Zone.


As we come around the bend at Williams Island Lookout Mountain comes into view. While most know of Lookout Mountain some may not remember that it was here in November of 1863 that Union and Confederate forces clashed in the "Battle Above the Clouds," one of the bloodiest battles of the Civil War . . . 34,000 deaths. Around one more bend and we are at Chattanooga, established in 1815 by Cherokee descendant Chief John Ross. Our dock is just upriver of the John Ross Bridge, on a floating dock parallel to the river bank.


After docking the local tour "steam boat" Southern Belle, passes under the John Ross Bridge and passes our location. During the night the steam boat DELTA QUEEN tied up at the dock behind us. Sorry, no picture . . . the camera is on the fritz. Time for a new one.


After docking on Friday the 19th, daughter and grand-daughter, Brandi and Taylor from Knoxville, joined us for the week end. Saturday morning we were off to the incline railway and the top of Lookout Mountain.


Three beautiful, charming women that I am lucky to be associated with . . . up the mountain, over to Rock City and a view of seven states, lunch at the Krystal (tiny hamburgers, one-half dozen), to the mall, out to dinner for ribs; a great day!!


A view of the Tennessee River from Lookout Mountain. The top of the bend is SONATA's location for a week while Brandi and Taylor return to Knoxville and Bonnie returns to Virginia Beach and her work. Boat jobs for Charlie, and, now it is raining, raining, much needed rain for this area, the East Coast.

October 11, 2007 . . . Paris

Overnight at the Paris Landing State Park Marina. A beautiful new place. Took on some 285 gallons of diesel; topped off the 600 gallon tanks.


Departure from Paris, on our way to Cuba . . . was delayed due to heavy ground fog that hugged the river and made visiability near zero.

October 9 - 10, 2007 . . . Cumberland River, into Tennessee

While we intend to travel up the Tennessee River to Knoxville for Thanksgiving at Bonnie's daughter's, we could not go up the Tennessee at Paducah due to the Kentucky Dam and Lock being repaired. We continued up the Ohio through two locks, Locks 53 and 52, to the Cumberland River. Here we turned in behind a tow that a few minutes later pulled to the side of the river to let us pass. (Really, he was waiting for an outbound tow that was coming down the Cumberland . . . there was not room for both in the area they would meet so this one waited.)


Met this little fellow on the Cumberland. We agreed to a "two-whistle" passage (starboard to starboard). The preferred port to port passage just would not work in this situation. Do not think a canoe could have passed port to port.


Bonnie then put us in the Barkley Lock for our first lift on the way to Knoxville.


A few miles up the Cumberland from the Barkley Lock was Green Turtle Bay Marina. Here we were among some 25-30 other loopers. Some of us were just in a row as shown here. There are lots of boats, loopers, gathering, for the get-together at Joe Wheeler State Park on the 15th.


Two nights at Green Turtle Bay . . . the five year old computer . . . died . . . and a replacement was secured from Best Buy . . . in Paducah. Green Turtle was kind enough to let us have their vehicle and we made several trips to Paducah to fill all our needs.


The canal between the Cumberland and the Tennessee Rivers, on the Cumberland it is up river from the Barkley Dam and Lock and on the Tennessee it is up river from the Kentucky Dam. Here we cross the "Land Between the Lakes" and into the Tennessee.

October 8, 2007 . . . The Ohio River

Our first stop up the Ohio was at Paducah, Kentucky.


Just ahead of thunderstorms, we tied up to the public dock in Paducah for the night with GREAT ESCAPE.


On the wall that exists to keep the Ohio out of the town were a number of drawings. One showed the river/port from about 1873 . . . we secured SONATA about the same location as that showing the paddlewheelers along the waterfront.

Sept 28-Oct 7, 2007 . . . Mississippi River

After leaving the Illinois we went down the Mississippi to Alton, Illinois. The Marina there is partly under the Clark Bridge that crosses the Mississippi. We turned upstream to enter the marina.


Our friend, Elaine Bosley from Kansas City, Missouri, joined us in Alton for the week end. A wonderful time visiting and catching up. Elaine and Bonnie went shopping in St. Louis and we spent one afternoon cruising on the Mississippi. Great Fun.


Elaine departed, Bonnie returned to Virginia Beach to work and Charlie's brother, John, on his way to Florida and Mississippi, came in to visit from Los Angeles. John and Charlie went to the Arch in St. Louis, visited other loopers on the docks, enjoyed the "hot-tub" and swimming pool, restocked SONATA with groceries and just enjoyed being together. Another great visit!


Just South of the Alton marina was our first Mississippi river lock, the Mel Price lock. Two chambers, a big one, 1200' x 110', and an auxillary chamber only 600' x 110'. We were placed in the 600' lock. John and Charlie visited this lock during John's stay and picked up information that will be presented later in the blog.


When you exit the Mel Price lock you can either go right down the Mississippi (rocky channel with small waterfalls) or go left through the Chain of Rocks Channel made, created by the Corps of Engineers, as the shipping channel. When we exit we came to a face off with an upbound tow and his barges.

Some useful information. A barge can carry 1500 tons, 52,500 bushels, or 453,600 gallons. One barge is equal to fifteen (15) jumbo railroad hopper cars, or fifty-eight (58) semi-trucks. When we pass a 15 barge or a 20 or 30 barge tow, we are passing alot of stuff!!!


Approaching the Chain of Rocks Lock which is just above St. Louis and at the end of the Chain of Rocks Channel we are surrounded by white pelicans.


Inside the Chain of Rocks Lock looking aft we observe the wall being raised. This lock does not have a rear gate, but rather a wall that is raised and lowered to allow vessels to enter and exit. Again, we are in the auxillary lock, 600' x 110'. GREAT ESCAPE has joined us again. We will travel together down the Mississippi, up the Ohio, and on the Tennessee until they, Don and Theresa, head south on the Tombigbee.


Saint Louis Arch from the river, SONATA on the way South.


Another view of the arch, a little further down river, showing the tour boats that are along the waterfront. Strange, in St. Louis there are NO facilities for visitors to tie up, no marina, only hundreds of barges and these few tour boats.


Almost 50 miles south of St. Louis is the first, only, marina for miles and miles. Hoppies Marina consists of a half-dozen or so barges tied to the river bank. The location is well known by all loopers and a "required" stop.


The covered shed on the barge is the Hoppies Marina Executive Conference Center where each day Fern, "Mrs. Hoppie", holds her Mississippi and lower rivers educational seminar. Attendance is mandatory!


Fern during her informational presentation. She advises where to stop on the River, how to navigate through the eddies and currents, her experience with the Coast Guard and Homeland Security . . . wanting her to make her marina secure against terrorist!? She and her husband have been on the river more than 50 years, it is said that Hoppie (Fern's husband) is the last of the the river's lamplighters.


Hoppies from the shore with SONATA and the river in view. This is our scene after we returned from lunch at the Blue Owl in Kimmswick, Missouri.


The Boys of Summer resting on the Husband's Bench, Charlie and Don Miller (Great Escape). Where are the girls, Bonnie and Theresa . . . shopping of course!


On the river again, strong current, a picture of the Garmin GPS screen showing our location, speed (13.1), time (0914), and depth of water (22.3'); we are racing down the river with the current providing a big push.


Down nearly another 50 miles we arrive at the Kaskaskia River Lock and Dam which is just off the Mississippi and the entry way to the port of New Athens, Illinois. We were allowed to tie off to the lock wall for the evening. There are no services here . . . but at least you are safe and off the river for the night.


Another 50 or so miles and we are at the Little River Diversion Channel which is a small channel off the Mississippi. We anchored for the night then are ready to proceed to the Ohio River.


In conversing with the tow (tug) captains found out that tow boats run from some 6,000 to 10,000 horsepower. This one is one of the 10,000 horsepower boats and they move the 20-30 size barge collections from New Orleans to St. Louis. This one has 29 barges. In St. Louis the barges are separated and moved on up the Mississippi or the Illinois by smaller tows, 6-7,000 horsepower.


The end of our Mississippi River journey. Here we made a left turn into the Ohio River. The water changed from swirling muddy brown water to relatively calm blue/green water. On our way up the Ohio...............

Sept 17-26, 2007 . . . The Illinois River

Two nights at the Harborside Marina just outside Morris, Illinois, then we continued down river . . . meeting barges coming out of the locks. They are as big as they appear!


Our turn to ride down, the gates open, and the barge and tug that went before us was still outside the gate.


As we traveled down the river we saw many houseboats, these were a bit unusual...


Weeks before we started down the river there was too much water, 10' or so above flood stage causing trees to be uprooted and swept to the side of the river. During our travel we found the river to be low. Army Corp of Engineers controls the river levels where they can.


Charlie is as happy as can be! Driving our boat and talking on the radio. He has found many new friends in the tug captains. On each passing a proposal is made to pass on "one whistle" or "two". This passage is on two whistles, passing on our starboard side.


In the Marseilles Lock we were looking at a 40' drop down the Illinois.


Into Hennepin, Illinois; alongside the "towndock" which was a sunken barge. Arrangements had been made to receive fuel from a farm fuel supplier. Soon after arrival the Toedter Oil Truck arrived and almost 300 gallons of fuel were taken aboard. Diesel along the river was running at about $4.00 per gallon at the marinas . . . farm diesel, the same diesel, was delivered for $2.73 a gallon. How sweet it is!!! Dinner was at Ray's Place. Ray is no longer with us. His wife, Pauline, and her twin sister, run the place. They must be in their 80's. We enjoyed the buffet . . . delicious fried chicken, mashed potatoes and thinly sliced beef with gravy, string beans, meatballs and spaghetti, and fried fish.............. there was no room for desert.

Addition and correction: This is a comment, note, a duplication of an entry made February 13, 2008. The February comment is based upon an email received and all is appropriately repeated here.

February 13, 2008: Back in September (Blog entry September 17-26) this photo was posted and there was a report of "farm fuel" and dinner at "Ray's Place." A large part of the joy in this journey has been the people you meet, talk with, and enjoy along the way. While we were at Ray's Place and having a great meal we spoke with . . . well, just let me say that it has been, continues to be, great to hear from so many people along the way; the lives we have touched, that have surely touched us.

This email which was received from Andrea Minyard speaks for itself. Great to hear from her!!

Hello there! My name is Andrea Minyard. I am 29 years old, and I am the Grandaughter of Pauline Marchiori, who owns Ray's Place On the Riverfront in Hennepin, IL. I am the manager of the restaurant and remember your visit to our small town. I was reading your journal and I am pleased to see you included us in your story, along with a fantastic picture of our "dock". There is however a small correction that needs to be made to your story. Pauline (owner) and her sister Shirley are not twins; they are simply sisters. Pauline is the eldest child of 8; (5 girls and 3 boys). Also, neither of them are in their 80's. Pauline just celebrated her 75th (or as she would like you to think, her "57th) birthday, and Shirley is only 72. Shirley is definitely a major contributer to our little restaurant, making our homemade noodles, soups, and pies, but Pauline and I are the ones who actually run the restaurant. Pauline was at the helm for the last 15 years since my grandfather Ray died in '93, and I joined the team as manager in Oct of '06.
Thank you so much for visiting us and I hope you make it back to our little world again.
Sincerely,
Andrea Minyard


On to the town dock at Chillocaohe, Illinois. The restaurant at the dock served only beer, mixed drinks . . . and frozen pizza. We walked to town to a newly opened hot dog place . . . then for our evening event we rode our bikes through the town and stopped at DQ for a little ice cream treat.


We stopped in Peroia, Illinois, at the town dock, for lunch and a walk about town. The dock had NO cleats so we tied up to rails. The docks were built for small boats . . . and there was to be a charge of a dollar or two dollars depending on the length. There was no one there to collect. The downtown area was celebrating Octoberfest. There we met a local boater, a local doctor, Dr. Robert Lizar, who ran a family practice in Peoria, and, he encouraged us to use his slip at the Illinois Valley Yacht Club (IVY). . . which we did.


As we arrived at the IVY marina a sailing regatta was in full swing from the marina.


Our spot in the IVY marina was in front of the club house. There were a number of other loopers in the marina, GENESIS, STEELE'N TIME, KITTIWAKE, RESTLESS WIND.

The marina manager offered us his truck and went to the Galena Road Baptist Church. After the morning service we joined the small church membership for a delicious meal. The pastor's daughter, Sarah Jeffcoat, asked if she could bring her family down to see us in the afternoon; yes, of course. One of the greatest blessings on this trip, all along the way, has been the small churches we have been able to visit and the warm welcome they have extended to us. Their hospitality has endeared us to them.


We spent a rewarding afternoon with the Jeffcoats. Sarah had to leave early for a friends wedding shower, Jim and his sons, Collin, Taylor, and Drew, visited with us for the afternoon and it was delightful to make new friends and enjoy the interest of three (four) young men. (Photo credit: Jim Jeffcoat)


On down the river from IVY, Peoria, to Havana; Bonnie keeping the sun from her eyes so she can remain in the center of the river. "It's a beautiful thing."


At anchor, Charlie relaxing at the end of another wonderful day. This "wonderful day" shortly after the picture, came to an end. A passing vessel pushed a wake that caused us to ground. We were then able to accept the intentional wake of a passing tug that re-floated SONATA . . . we pulled the anchor and continued down the river to a new location . . . all night travel. Another story in this one is a run-in with the Coast Guard Auxillary . . . a helpful bunch, on this occasion, they were not.


Nearing Hardin, Illinois, the sides of the river are filled with the summery greenery . . . and the beginnings of fall are just coming into view. The calm waters added to the peaceful scene.


Passing again, on two whistles, this picture shows the depth sounder that the barges/tugs, place on the lead barge. This is so that tug . . . at the rear, can see the depth of the water at the front of the usually 9 plus barge group. We continued down the Illinois toward the Mississippi.


Down the Illinois . . . our first view of the white pelican. Almost to the Mississippi.


SONATA logbook, page 150, September 26, 2004, 1200 (noon) SONATA entered the waters of the Mighty Mississippi River; N38-57.870, W090-25.137; having traveled almost 2,500 miles. This was a most exciting moment for us.

Bonnie flies out of St. Louis for work. The trip down the Mississippi, the Ohio, the Tennessee, the Tombigbee Waterway . . . will continue on about October 4th when Bonnie returns.