Monday, August 10, 2009

Aug 8 - 14, 2009 ::: Boston, Massachusetts

After the tour of Boston, after walking to the top of Prudential Skywalk Observatory, and after the Madonna Della Cava Festival . . . we stop for dinner.





This is old time Boston. A festival in the middle of Hanover Street. Note the detail in who the sponsors are, Local 223, Mama Rosie's, Local 175, construction companies . . . lots of good food for sale . . . make a donation. Recorded 1959's music being played in the street. What a place!!!



The Gold Dome of the State House, the Legislature.




And the Charles River where hundreds of thousands each year on the 4th of July listen to the Boston Pops near the Longfellow Bridge play rousing music ending with the "1812".



Then of course Dick, we have the Red Sox, Fenway Park.


Boston. What first springs to mind when someone mentions Boston? Paul Revere, the Old North Church; both are right here. Paul Revere's home is just down the street from this location.

Aug 5 - 8, 2009 ::: Portsmouth to Boston

Dick and Betty departed on the 4th by air back to the world of land-lubbers and the heat of Norfolk, Virginia (reportedly in the 90's and low 100's). Those of us aboard SONATA put on our wind-breakers, long pants, and set off for Portsmouth, New Hampshire. We were off to stay at Wentworth by the Sea Marina in the adjoining town of New Castle.


As we pulled into Wentworth by the Sea Marina a thunder storm struck and we had to just "tread-water" for a short period of time . . . to wait for the lightening to clear. We could then proceed on to our dock.


The owners of the hotel since 1946 retired in 1980 and the hotel was closed. Harsh New England weather began to take its toll and the hotel was on its way to ruin. In 1996 the hotel was placed on the National Trust for Historical Preservation's List of America's Eleven Most Endangered Places. New construction, renovation, commenced in 2001 and the hotel re-opened in 2003. It is now a premier Marriott destination hotel and spa.



Up on the hill above the marina is Wentworth by the Sea Hotel. The hotel was first built in 1874 and by 1879 had a golf course, clubhouse, icehouse, steam-powered elevators, electric lights and flush toilets.

In 1905 the nearby Portsmouth Naval Shipyard hosted the negotiation talks between Russia and Japan to halt the Russo-Japanese War. President Theodore Roosevelt, never present for the talks, orchestrated the event, and won the 1906 Nobel Peace Prize for his actions.


About the time Charlie entered the Judge Advocate General's Corps (JAG) the Navy's prison, the Portsmouth Naval Yard Prison, was being closed. This building is on the harbor entrance and occupies a commanding site in the Portsmouth area.



SONATA departed Wentworth and found USCG EAGLE on the distant horizon preparing to enter Portsmouth. We were not close enough to take pictures and had seen the EAGLE in Halifax. SONATA continued on to Gloucester. In Gloucester just east of the entrance to the Blynman Canal is the Fisherman's Memorial. Each Memorial Day, flowers are thrown from the bronze monument to float out to sea in memory of those that who never returned from the sea. The crew of the ANDRIA GAIL was lost at sea during a mammoth nor'easter, and their names are memorialized on this monument.



August 8, a short trip from Gloucester to Boston, 28 miles; and then tours of Boston before Bonnie returns to Virginia Beach. A busy week, prepare the boat to move into the Cape Cod Canal, for Charlie's brother John to arrive and Bonnie's return. Stay tuned for more!

July 30-Aug 4, 2009 ::: Bar Harbor to Portland

An early morning departure from Bar Harbor, Dick, Betty, Bonnie and Charlie, will assure an early arrival in Rockland and allow time to get off the water before the winds pickup.


Even with the fog, the lobstermen work. The fog, the photograph, just cannot show the magnitude, the number, of lobster floats on the water.


There are many many light houses along the Maine coast. This is one of the many.


Probably the best place to observe the surroundings is to sit on the bow and watch the shore pass, the lobstermen working, and the many boats that are out on the water.


Schooners appear to be a popular way to travel and see the New England, Maine, coast.



The pictures do not adequately show the number of lobster pot floats. They are everywhere. Each lobster pot, or string of pots, is connected to TWO floats. The larger float is set so that it will be above water at high-tide. The smaller, tag float, is set to be afloat when at low tide. Between the tides there is a line floating, hovering, between the floats to adjust for the water level between high and low tide; as much at 11-15 feet. You must try to avoid these lines, these floats, when on the water.


By 1400 we pull into Rockland and go to the fuel pier. SONATA needs a drink . . . and receives some 410 gallons of diesel @ $2.30 per gallon.


Departing Rockland we are reminded of the work that is accomplished by the Coast Guard. This is a yard full of bouys to be used as replacements as needed in the local waterways.


Leaving the port of Rockland, we pass another gaff-rig schooner on our way to Boothbay.


The Rockland southwest shore departure light house; and people at one time lived here to maintain these lighthouses.


Entry into Boothbay, Maine, was a challenge. Lobster floats/traps, everywhere, navigation bouys to find in the sea of floats, and many many boats of all shapes and sizes going in different directions.


After arriving at the Carousel Marina we were again off to lunch at the marina. Bonnie is departing SONATA to join us.


So many boats in the harbor, on moorings, at anchor, on the piers. What a sight!


Fog. Yes, again fog on Boothbay as we depart for Freeport, Maine. Freeport is only 14 miles away, but we must again go into the ocean and pick our way throught the fog, lobster bouys, and other boats.


The fog lightens some as we come into Freeport and dock at Brewer's Marina. It was interesting that between Boothbay and Freeport we must have passed or encountered some dozen or more boats in the fog. Visibility was 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile . . . or less . . . and NO ONE had running lights on (SONATA did) nor was anyone sounding fog signals (SONATA did). A surprise!?!?!


In front of SONATA was a lobster boat, with its traps. Traps are rectangular boxes made from vinyl-coated wire mesh. According to Linda Greenlaw who is currently a lobsterman in Isle au Haut, Maine, the traps come in three sizes, "3 footers", "40 inchers", and "4 footers." She prefers the "40 inchers" due to the weight. Each trap has three bricks on the bottom so they sink correctly and have a plastic "door-piece" that has an opening that allows small lobsters to get out . . . the "door-piece" is held in place by "hog-rings" that will rust away and allow the door to fall off. This is to allow all lobsters to escape should the float be cut off and the trap lost. Generally speaking, a lobsterman can have 800 traps and place them anywhere(!) they want. It is illegal to possess a female lobster. A female lobster lays some 20,000 eggs in fourteen days. A lobster then molts some twenty-five times in its first five years of life. A marketable lobster is approximately seven years old. This information is from Linda Greenlaw's book THE LOBSTER CHRONICLES. Her other book, THE HUNGRY OCEAN tells her story of being a Swordboat captain. Linda Greenlaw was the captain of the HANNAH BODEN and sister ship to the ANDREA GAIL; Sebastian Junger's book, THE PERFECT STORM.


With all the information about lobsters, lobstermen, thought you should see both the lobster boats and the lobstermen. These lobstermen came into the fuel dock where SONATA was tied to obtain some gasoline for their boat.


This young man, Alex, was so good to us. He runs the harbor launch service in Freeport, he is happy to give you transportation to LLBean or town as the case may be. He took good care of us during our stay in Freeport.


On our way to Portland from Freeport we were again in the fog. This gaff-rigged schooner crossed our path along with a tug and barge (barge had a school bus on board) and several other boats.


When we first arrived in Portland at DiMillos Marina, the Coast Guard was to our port. The Coast Guard went to see as we tied up and a couple of hours later the ANTARES came in and moored. After lunch Dick and Betty prepared for their departure only after the delivery of a second battery to SONATA by West Marine. The #2 battery shorted and the second battery was replaced with the assistance of Eric from DiMillos Marina staff, and Dick. An 8D battery carries a weight of in excess of 160 lbs. A challenge to move around.

July 29-30, 2009 ::: Bar Harbor, Maine

After clearing with the US officials off to lunch. Lobster, fish, shops, places to see; all before our first sunset in Bar Harbor.


Following sunset there is always a beautiful sunrise. And we were again off to see Bar Harbor.



SONATA remained at the dock while we toured.


The fog would roll in, and roll out of the harbor.


Fog or no fog, the tourists were given their boat rides. What a place!


While at the pier completing some electrical work, STAMPEDE came in alongside SONATA on the outboard pier. SONATA's #1 battery, an 8D, had an internal short when we planned to depart Charlottetown, PEI. The first place to obtain a new one from West Marine was in Bar Harbor. Calls were made before arrival and West Marine agreed to deliver the battery to the dock. The Bar Harbor Harbormaster provided a name . . . Steve Strout, a lobstermann and an electrician to help. Steve was of great assistance, and the battery was installed and working before we departed for Rockland.

July 24-29 ::: Halifax to Bar Harbor, Maine, USA

Late, late on Thursday the 23rd . . . really, early on Friday the 24th, Bonnie, along with Dick and Betty Gray, arrived on SONATA . . . about 0300. Everyone slept and then later on Friday a tour of Halifax was completed with lunch downtown and a stop at the grocery. Dick and Betty were put to the test the next day, Saturday. Saturday we were underway just before 0600 for Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. The trip brought fog, dampness, and 4 METER swells, all making for a less than comfortable ride.


Our arrival in Luneburg was greeted by the annual gaff-rigged schooner race. Some beautiful boats.


Pier space was at a premium in Luneburg due to the races. We were granted space alongside the Fisheries Museum. Captain Pike of the museum fabricated side boards for SONATA to rest against the high piers (9' tides and no floating docks); long lines used to remain alongside.


Leaving Lunenburg for Liverpool provided still another Nova Scotia foggy day. Liverpool was founded by loyalists in 1759 and privateers and shipwrights flourished here in large New England styled homes.


It was a short trip from Lunenburg to Liverpool, just over four hours, so we took lunch at the marina. Carla ran the marina as a volunteer, cooked some terrific burgers and we enjoyed lunch with others in the marina area and relaxed in the sunshine. Bonnie and Betty walked to town, Dick and Charlie worked on board SONATA.




Decision time! We held a crew conference . . . weather did not look the best; we can make the trip from Shelburne to Bar Harbor in two days or one L O N G day. The choice was one long day. The forecast for the trip was tolerable . . . the next several days after the trip were for more severe weather.


This Google Earth image shows generally were we went from Shelburne to Bar Harbor. A trip of 173 miles coverning some 22 hours. We all took turns at the wheel crossing the Bay of Fundy. We were underway from Shelburne at 0155 and arrived in Bar Harbor before midnight.


Bar Harbor, Maine. What a delightful place. We secured SONATA to the municipal dock and prepared to go ashore after being visited by U.S. Border Protection Officer Jefferson. A comfortable and easy entry into the US and by 1000 we were cleared into the US. A note here; this date marks the completion of the First Log Book of SONATA, some 300 pages of travels are recorded.